To race a Laser competitively you need to spend some time setting up the control lines within the limits of the rules. Photo's of legal rigging arrangements can be found by clicking on the following links.
[Vang/Kicking Strap] [Outhaul]
Changes to the current arrangements have been approved by Class vote and will follow sometime towards the end of 2000. The final wording of the rules is not yet available. Click here to see some experimental, and perhaps soon to be legal arrangements.
Here's some info on ropes from Mark Michaelson (MM) of Small Craft Advisories Sailing Centers- Newport Beach, CA. 1(800) 354-7245. This is their top of the line "Olympic" rope package which sells for $89.95 US (in 1998 anyway!)
Mainsheet
48' Yale light in 1/4" Polypro-Spectra blend provides for a non-stretch mainsheet without absorbing water. The smaller diameter provides for minimum friction on the mainsheet blocks and allows you to sail by the lee in even the light air without sagging the clew.JDE Notes
The problem with this rope is that it tangles too much. You would not believe how this rope manages to tie itself into knots. I have junked it in favour the standard rope from Vanguard that came with my new boat. The difference in speed because you have this rope and a slightly heavier regular 6mm rope is nothing compared to having to stop racing to sort the mess out. This is not a joke. One sailor at the world masters in Melbourne got in such a mess he had to capsize the boat, unthread the mainsheet, undo the knot, rethread the mainsheet and then right the boat. He was in second place at the time and went to plumb last. He was awarded a special "Old Farts" award for his antics.
If you don't sail all year round, you should think about getting some full fingered gloves to cope with a thin mainsheet over a week long championship. Short fingered gloves do not offer much protection to the inside of your lower finger joints and after the third day of racing you'll learn the hard and painful way. (Been there, done it twice!)
Check out the new non-tangle mainsheets now on the market. It appears to be the real McCoy.
Vang control line
3/16" pure Spectra by Samson 15'3" Spectron 12 provides a unique blend of 100% Spectra fiber in a 12 strand weave.
Extremely low stretch and minimum friction makes this the ideal line for the job.This is my vang set up with two extra purchases (most sailors use a single extra purchase). The upper end has a loop added into the rope to use as a purchase. The lower end has the tail of the rope tied off around the lower block and swivel with a loop tied in. Its powerful yet still releases under light load. Anti-friction stuff should be rubbed into the ropes where they run through the extra loops. The blocks are original 1982 vintage. You should be careful about changing vang blocks. Sometimes a new one will fail and could cost you a day's racing. Once you have load tested them in 25-30 knots keep them. Hopefully next year they will be museum pieces. Apparently the block design changed slightly in the last few years so may be the new ones are better. I should check it out before the 2000 season starts.
The cunningham control line
3/16" pure Spectra by Yale
16.25' of Marlow SD-3R or Spec 12 provides a maximum strength/minimum weight blend. The more course weave helps maxi braid cleat in the clam style cleats
The traveler control line
3/16" Samson Technora (White w/red or/blue or/green flecks) An aramid fiber is allowed in this location. We have found that technora in 3/16" provides the best strength and stretch characteristics of any line on the market. At 1.4 times the strength of Kevlar and 68% the specific gravity, Technora is the choice in any application where zero stretch is critical.
Outhaul
3/16" Spectra/polyester blend @100% ratio makes for the perfect outhaul control line. Small in diameter but very strong with low stretch!Here's my outhaul set up so you can properly adjust it to known settings. Its no use just looking to the end of the boom because it is so difficult to judge where the sail is at such an angle. With this set up you know exactly were it is and can have confidence repeating what was a fast setting. (by the way the blue mainsheet is self-tangling mainsheet mentioned above). One purchase at the end of the boom is the standard setup. Tie off with a bowline around the end fairlead. The measurements are inches from the end of the boom.
Here is how to read the setting from the cockpit. The readings are the same but from a different portion of the rope. You don't have to look at the end of the boom as you tighten up the settings for the windward leg. One pull on the outhaul and you have the setting to accurate to 5mm - no problem. Favourite settings so far are 5-6" in stronger winds 6-7" in light medium winds, but if there is a good chop try letting out another inch or two for more power. In really light winds and flat water you can try a tightish setting. I'm still learning so don't treat these as gospel.
Clew tie
1/8" Dyneema (Spectra) (Pink) 100 Spectra core and a rough case make Dyneema the only choice for the clew tie. Low
stretch and a case that holds a knot make Dyneema SD-3 the correct option.
Footstrap tie line
5/32" Marlow pre-stretch. (Multi-color) or 3/16" marlow pre-stretch. Makes the ideal durable line to keep you in the boat! Low stretch and easy to adjust.
Rudder tie down line
5/32" Marlow pre-stretch. This will keep your rudder in the full "down" position to allow for a more balanced helm.